![]() ![]() ![]() When the balls fall into the ports, they round its vertical edges a bit, but only the dividers that get hit because of the direction the tool rotates. The ball hones put the cross hatch scratches on the cylinder wall but the soft stones fingers follow the contour of the bore in a way that makes determining it's condition is a little tough. The hard straight stones have the ability to straighten out a bore a little bit and they let you see the cylinder wear very well. It is fitted with long stones that don't catch ports very easily - unless they're extremely large. I prefer to use a real hone - in this case a Sunnen hard stone, connecting rod reconditioning machine. Hi hoser, It has been my experience that the ball hones are OK for re-ringing a top end but I avoid them even then. Can you shed some light on this? Thanks again hoser. Here is a email thread between Macdizzy and myself that took place Apr 30th 2000 Hi I was talking to a few friends and engine builders there seems to be some kind of confusion ( at least for me) on how to hone a 2 cycle engine bore some are saying to use a 3 blade solid stone and some are saying to use a ball hone the guys that say use the solid stone hone tell me the ball hone will catch in the ports and or bevel the sides of the ports. You should end up with a hone that is sized at 2 5/8-66.7mm but that will be big enough for the 69mm bore because they do run bigger than the size stated i had bought one that was 2 1/2" but it will only work good up to about 67mm so i had to buy a 2 5/8 one after also there are different grits that are available i would go with a 220 or the 280 but they are available in 120 and 380 also John I leave the boring/honing to someone else. I plan on using this only when reringing. Sunnen makes some good tools for this, though for many people the cost of these hones are far too cost prohibitive. What is needed is the surface finish a hard straight stone provides. When changing the rings or piston kit ball hones work OK, but for serious work it is simply not good enough. This type of hone does apply a bit of a bevel to the top and bottom of ports too but in most cases it is not beveled enough this way to be considered finished. This allows the ports to have rounded port walls on all their vertical edges. It is of some advantage to run the hone in the clockwise direction when starting, then reverse its direction to apply the finish to the ports opposite wall. The ball hone does apply a relatively nicely rounded bevel to the side of all the ports it crosses - that is, the walls it runs into, not off from. The direction the drill turns the flex hone determines the walls that will become affected. This is not very important on stock / non-ported cylinders but becomes so on special ported pieces. The rough balls fall into the ports far enough to disturb the finish of the port. I'm not that crazy about the way a ball hone affects the edge of large port walls - especially large exhaust ports. I also am going to order a ball/flex hone for $30.00 that will fit 66mm to about 68mm. I called Goodson and got some questions answered. You should be able to buy a hone that will fall into your needs. But they don't grab and or do any damage to the port window that a flat stone style will do(unless it's a sunnen type machine with very long stones). Typically the hone is 10% larger than the bore size. The balls on the Flex-hone do spread slightly. How do you keep the balls out of the ports when using a ball hone? I know if you use the right flat stone hone the stones and guides are not affected by ports. Try they have about everything you need for engine building. ![]() Kelseyĭo these hones have to be an exact size for the application or will they work on a range of sizes? I would like one to work with all my possible bore sizes, from 66mm-69mm. BackcountryĬheck any machinist or industrial catalog or go to your nearest industrial shop and you can order any Flex Hone that you would like. The flat stone style can catch the edge of a transfer and make the job "fun and interesting". They tend to remove material slower, which is good for "us" rookies. I highly prefer the flex-hone over the flat stone style. I saw in their catalog that they had Flex-Hones for sale. ![]() Try contacting they're a sled orientated shop, but two strokes be two strokes. I have never used one but have heard that they are better than a stone type. Where do I find one and what size do I look for? I need something versatile enough to fit 66mm to about 69mm. The thread started 10-17-2000 I need some info on a ball type cylinder hone. Cylinder Hone Ball Hone or not? Update 8-12-06 This is a thread off of Macdizzy's message board it is a good thread, so good I hate to see it get lost in the archives forever. ![]()
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